For the last 18 months and the past three fashion seasons, the concept of a traditional fashion week has not existed. As a result of the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic and the social restrictions that have come with it, designers have not been able to host runway shows in the way we once knew them, with many fashion houses turning to digital formats or hosting audience-free shows, with some even forgoing the concept altogether. However, this month will see more in-person fashion shows than we have experienced for a very long time. Although the schedules are still not quite back to normal, a loosening of restrictions in the four major fashion capitals will allow fashion week to take place in a physical setting – and plenty of designers are returning to the catwalk for the first time since March 2020.
The schedule begins this week in New York City, where we expect there to be quite a buzz around the shows as fashion’s finest fly into town for the Met Gala, which is now postponed and will now take place on Monday 13 September. The fashion set will then head to London, Milan, and Paris, where there will be plenty of excitement with the return of the front row, debut designer collections, and a beautiful tribute to the late Alber Elbaz in Paris, where 40 designers have paid homage to his work with a collection dedicated to the couturier.
Below, I rounded up every major catwalk moment you need to see from New York, London, Milan, and Paris as designers across the globe present their spring/summer 2022 collections. Let’s check ’em out!
Welcome back, Joseph Altuzarra! It was 2017 when Altuzarra left New York for Paris in a wave of established designers looking for more visibility on the international stage. The pandemic kept him here this season; when it was announced in May that he’d be showing, his return became part of the narrative around a revived NYFW schedule. His show today lived up to that build-up, and then some. Tapping into instincts he described as “eclectic and even a touch escapist” yielded his best collection in years. Being on familiar turf didn’t hurt, either. The hometown crowd gave him a rousing cheer when he came out for a bow.
« Being able to create beautiful pieces that are desirable and at the same time that empower others is probably one of the most satisfying personal experiences, » Gabriela Hearst wrote in her show notes of her latest collection, one which was filled with bright colorful knits, and which was inspired by Hester Diamond.
It was a New York Fashion Week show debut for Peter Do – and he did not disappoint. The designer, who has already won various accolades and is collecting A-list fans, presented a timeless collection of capsule classics in a neutral color palette, which nods to the understated glamour that his brand has become so well known for. From perfectly cut trench coats to great tailoring and exquisite workwear, his is a name to know now.
Supermodels including Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk stepped onto the catwalk for Moschino as Jeremy Scott presented a collection that he described as « ladies who lunch, but also nursery rhymes, so it’s a baby lady ». The models wore dresses covered in childlike prints and held accessories including baby bottles, injecting some fun into a very rainy New York day.
Sarah Staudinger knows how to throw a party. Here was the scene: Her semi-eponymous label hosted its spring 2022 show on the terrace of Spring Studios, overlooking the Tribeca skyline at sunset. It was a perfect late-summer evening, complete with a perfect crescent moon that became more visible over the course of the show and a giant lemon-cum-disco-ball in the center of the venue.
To wrap this all up, here’s my Top 5 most favourite catwalk moments these brands showcased. Hope you guys had the chance to get a glimpse of what NYFW has to offer. That’s it for today ladies and see you in Paris Fashion Week!
Video Credits: Camila Coelho via Instagram Stories
Runway Credits: Vogue Runway 2021