Uma Wang, a visionary fashion designer from China, has finally returned to Paris after being away for three long years. Her eagerly anticipated fall 2023 collection showcases the brand’s new and unexpected developments, while staying true to her signature earthy and rich textiles.

The show, held at the same location where Wang previously debuted, surprised audiences with her experimentation with denim, a material she had never used before. But that’s not all, as the designer also included something shiny in the collection, marking the first time she has ever done so.

The show began with a stunning array of looks made from red bonded linen, which had a luxurious, leather-like quality. These were paired with other plush materials, such as bonded industrial felt, velvet, cashmere, and shaggy faux fur, all of which were specially developed by her long-term Italian suppliers. The designer emphasized that she always starts with the fabric, which she believes is the most emotional part of the design process. For her, the shape and style come later.

One of the standout features of the collection was the giant jewelry pieces, inspired by halos, a motif that spans different cultures, just like Wang does. She drew inspiration from western religious paintings and the wall paintings inside China’s Mogao Caves.