The collection explored the versatility of the square shape and how it is commonly used as a foundation for art across different creative industries. Miyake took this concept and incorporated it into his designs by using original forms and technologies to create a new aesthetic based on the Japanese concept of “ma,” which refers to the “unified space” between clothes and the wearer.
The collection featured a variety of silhouettes that embodied this new style. The soft, elastic material used in the canopy-shaped ensembles covered the body with minimal seams, while knits with square-inspired stitching reached across the models. A standout feature of the collection was the “Rhythm Check” pattern, which provided a three-dimensional effect to many of the looks with intentional shrinkage. The “Counterpoint: Check” coat was also a highlight, featuring a reversible design with contrasting reflections on each side.
Innovative knitwear techniques were showcased in the collection, with some designs featuring a twisted construction created by knitting the front and back in different directions. The double-knitting approach used in other designs fused two separate fabrics to mimic an “unconventionally shaped painter’s canvas,” according to the collection notes. The “Square” bag series was also crafted with draping at the forefront, adding an extra element of texture and dimension to the collection.
Overall, Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection was a showcase of innovative designs that explored the concept of the square and its versatility in the creative arts. Miyake’s use of original forms and technologies created a new aesthetic that emphasized the unity between clothes and their wearer, and the collection was a testament to his ongoing commitment to pushing the boundaries of fashion design.